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Finally my DI'd Ricky bass sounds right with UAD-1

I could never get my di'd Rickenbacker 4003 sounding right in a mix. It just sounded weak.

After carefully listening to some Jamiroquai tracks and with help from a little program called 'Studio Buddy' I tried setting things up more carefully.

I used my Groove Tubes 'the brick' preamp and inserted the UAD-1 1176 with medium attack long release and ratio 20 which made a big difference. I then cut all the high frequencies with a low pass eq below 400hz (free version of spin audios eq), & boosted around 100hz with a wide Q setting.
Wow what a difference, but I am still tweaking to improve as I find I have to play the strings very hard to get the sound. I want to get that tight punchy sound with a little less playing effort....maybe I am compressing too hard?

You may want to try the PMB. Before I got my Boyd Bass Designs \"Byron Santo\" model bass I had to use multiband compressors to tighten up just the low end and mix as needed. If I was slapping I might use the Low & HighMid bands. Since getting my sig bass multiband compression is not needed. I'll only use a little LA-2A on the DI track

Or you could try this. Copy your DI track and use the filters in the Cambridge EQ to create a LOW, MID or HIGH track and mix as needed. With this approach you could place a differnt compressor on each track.

Just thought of this. Create a LOW, MID & HIGH tracks. Put Nigel on the MID track to grit up your Rick a little more


Established Member
Hi Hemmick,

Reading few things this morning about Liquid mix stuff I fall on;
Top Tips: Recording Bass Guitar

They talk a little about re-amping etc and the use of a SansAmp pedal.
Since I'm using the SansAmp's BASS Driver DI, I can tell you that it's true that is a nice way to shape your bass sound. Here I'm recording my bass on 2 tracks, one clean and one thru the SansAmp. However, I have to try the «re-amping» way which has the strength to tweak the SampAmp on mixing...


If you're looking from more punch move the LPF up from 400 to something above 1K, I like around 2200. Also, taking some out at 200Hz can be more effective than boosting 100Hz.

I like the Fairchild more for the tube/transformer warmth, the 1167 gets to \"grindy\" from my tastes on bass.

Here's one of my bass formulas:
Waves Q10
HPF 42
-9dB @ 210
+1dB @ 520
LPF 2200

3.6:1, 9ms Attack, 90ms Release, set threshold for about -4dB reduction

UAD Fairchild
Threshold 3.5, set for 1dB reduction
Time 2
Bias at 2 o'clock

UAD PultecPro
+.5 @ 500Hz
-3 @ 300Hz
Assuming you're using a passive instrument:

A **BIG** part of getting a decent DI bass/guitar sound is plugging into an input that can cope with the high impedence. This makes a WORLD of difference! Plugging into a 'standard' 1/4\" input (not designed for instrument impedence) will rob your signal of both high-end clarity... and a tight solid bottom end.

The Rik plugged into a proper instrument input should result in a decent (if not killer) DI sound. For a tighter bottom and more bite, run the Rik thru a Sans Amp BDI.

I'd recommend checking out the POD XT as well...


Jim, OT but have you tried the Bass model pack on the POD xt? If so, how are the amps and cabinets for getting a DI sound?




fender pbass > avalon u5 > sansamp rbi > ultralite > fairchild

sounds pretty good. :D
Thanks for the replies

The brick has high impedance inputs for instruments as well as xlr for mic's so it works as a di box as well as a preamp. The basspod may be a good addition though!



project said:
fender pbass > avalon u5 > sansamp rbi > ultralite > fairchild

sounds pretty good. :D
I'll bet! :D

Btw: most folks I've talked to really don't like the Bass Pod. It has that same problem as the guitar version: fizzy / fuzzy sound that is really unattractive on a bass. I realize that this is a question of preference; but I'd recommend that someone trying before buying.

Eric Dahlberg

Purveyor of musical dreams fullfilled.
The 1073 is really nice for bass. High pass at 50 or 80 & boost at 110 for a massive sound that isn't boomy.

I've always associated the sound of a Rickenbacker with a hint of distortion. Software is really too edgy but a Pod or Sansamp would be good. I bet it'd be cool to overdrive the front end of the Brick, although you'll probably have to pad the output going to your soundcard. A Blackstone pedal would be really nice, too.
My experience has been to just not use DI boxes unless you are running a DI AND micing up a cabinet.

I find the easiest way to a great sound is to use a dedicated bass preamp, the RBI rules, and I'm a big fan of the Ampeg SVP Pro (I own both).

Rather than futz with a bunch of plugins, EQ's etc. I just plug in to the RBI (or the Ampeg), adjust the sound to taste and hit it with some light hardware compression (Symetrix 501 with the original Valley People VCA or a Drawmer DL 241) on the way in to keep levels in check, then on the track for playback I usually use the 1176LN, I've not got the SE to work right for bass.

The LA2A works pretty well too, but is a lot more subtle of course and my playing style is pretty aggressive so the 1176 works better for me.

Going back to the DI thing, I've got some pretty nice pres, most with built in DI's (Great River MP-2NV, a pair of Averill racked Calrec modules, and a True Systems P2) and I find the Sansamp RBI just flat out works better than using those DI inputs.

It's a very colored sound, so keep that in mind but it's all ready to roll with very little work.

I've tried the various POD mutations and while they do a zillion sounds pretty well they don't seem to excel at any of them....just MHO but I think the Sansamp RBI crushes the Bass Pod/Pod XT/Pro, etc. and I only paid $250 for mine.

The Alembic bass preamp is really cool too, but a little buttery for my tastes, although I plan on picking one up some day.

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